how do i know how many stitches to cast on when knitting socks with the magic loop method?

I would like to know how to do this by calculating my gauge and measuring my foot rather than using a pre made pattern by somebody.

5 Responses to “how do i know how many stitches to cast on when knitting socks with the magic loop method?”

  1. Theresa P says:

    what is the magic loop method?

  2. thejanith says:

    I don’t know magic loop anything. However, I make my own simple knitting patterns all the time. I think this might help.

    Measure your foot. (If it’s small, use metric — unless you absolutely loooove working with fractions. Metric’s only hard if you try to convert back and forth from English to metric and back. Stick with one, and it makes no difference what system you use. Measuring’s measuring. Most measuring tapes use both, so you most likely already have a measuring tape with metric on it.) Measure around your foot at the widest part, then measure the length from the end of your big toe, across the bottom of your foot, and up the back of your heel to the point where you want the sock to end. Also measure just the length of your foot. Write down all measurements.

    Figure out your gauge. Most of those come printed in English and metric measurements, too. Find out how many stitches per centimeter or inch you get. Add 10%. Cast on that many, whatever method you use. I prefer to cast on with both needles held together, so I have space to work in the first row. Do whatever you’re used to.

  3. Leslie M says:

    It doesn’t really matter what cast on method you use unless you are working from the toe up. The initial number of stitches will stay the same. I measure around the widest part of the foot, and then multiply that by my stitches per inch. I knit fairly loose, so I do not add ease to this measurement. The only thing is to make sure that you have an even number of stitches so that you can split them at the heel. (Heel flaps also work better if they are an even number of stitches, so you may want your initial number to be a multiple of 4.)

    If you work from the toe up, you don’t even need a gauge swatch. Just increase every other row until the sock fits the widest part of the foot and then stop increasing until you get to the gusset.

  4. Miz T says:

    Assuming cuff-down and that you’ve knit a gauge swatch:

    1. Measure the circumference of the widest part of your foot. Measure the circumference of the widest part of your calf that will be covered by sock. Use the larger measurement.
    2. Multiply the number of stitches per inch in your gauge swatch by the number of inches in the circumference of your foot (or calf, if it is larger) to get your “cast on” stitch number.
    3. Decide if you need to adjust the number of cast-on stitches and if so, how to adjust. The number has to be divisible by 2 if you are using 1 x 1 rib and it has to be divisible by 4 if you are using 2 x 2 rib. Life is easier if the number of cast-on stitches is divisible by 4 for 1 x 1 rib or divisible by 8 for 2 x 2 rib, because then you will have the same number of k and p stitches on both sides of the Loop.
    4. Once you have determined the correct number of stitches, cast on that many to one point of your circular needle. Slide the cast-on stitches to the middle of the needle cable. Count down from each end to be sure you have located the centerpoint, and pull the cable through at that point. Cast on half the number of stitches for the second sock onto the right-hand point, then transfer them to the left-hand point and cast on the rest of the stitches onto the right-hand point. Verify the stitch count on both socks and on both sides of the needle.
    5. Start knitting your cuff with your chosen ribbing pattern.

  5. mickiinpodunk says:

    You cast on the same number that you do with any other method of knitting sock. Work from your gauge (remember to swatch in the round, too) and go from there.

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